To tension set or not to tension set? (the original)
8th September 2013
When you choose a tension setting design there are a few things that you really need to consider; -
The metal supporting the gem must be strong enough to resist movement from bumps etc. that could result in the gem being dislodged.
The gem must be strong enough to have the required pressure applied to it by a setting style such as this. For example it would not be practical to tension set natural Emeralds.
Rings need to be made to size as often resizing is not possible.
In my experience there are very few designs that meet all these requirements, especially the second. Often the addition of a fine under rail can be the difference between securing the gem properly or not. However the addition of that under rail, similar to the one pictured to the right, means that it is no longer a truly "tension set" gemstone.
So when is a tension set design secure enough? I was asked to make an 11ml wide, 2.5ml thick minimalist dress ring design that featured a tension set diamond. First thing I did was digitally create the design so that the customer could decide on the diamond size.
Deciding on the diamond size.
Next I spoke to her about the above points regarding tension setting. It was decided to incorporate a fine under rail. I made a silver draft so that we could confirm the size and she wore the draft for a week to be absolutely sure of the size.
The precious metal for this ring was to be a palladium white gold alloy and after forming the band I made the decision that the ring was strong enough to support the diamond without the under rail. The end result was stunning with the diamond connecting the two ring ends.
Most rings sold today at the jewellery chains are about the 1ml thick range. This rings thickness was 2.5 times with a width of 11ml. In total 19 grams of gold were used giving the tension setting every chance to work.
I still have great reservations about tension setting in general but for this ring design it works. My customer intends to wear the ring nearly every day and I will be checking the ring in a month. I will update this post to let you know how the setting fairs.
09/09/2020 update
The customer never came back for the ring one month “free” checkup ( sadly like many of my customers) nor for any checkup which I do for free on any piece I have made. All you need to do is make an appointment. 7 years later and the diamond fell out and she has contacted me.
The one month and subsequent check ups allow me to see what your “normal” wear is and advise you of any issues and tips to make your jewellery last as long as possible.
For example a diamond is usually loose before it falls it. A check up can spot this. Diamonds can become loose from poor design or manufacture and a number of other reasons, one of them being how the owner treats the piece of jewellery and that design not suiting their lifestyle and intended wear.
In the case of this ring, once the diamond was loose we would have reverted to the original design of adding the rail under the diamond to give additional stability.
Wearing any of your jewellery until it wears out or fails is not a good idea. Your jewellery, your choice ……but I am hear to help if you want your jewellery to last.
Article: Diamonds are forever but your jewellery is not.
The verdict
Tension set rings are a design that needs be treated well and checked regularly even when made correctly. Because most people’s lifestyle does not suit either of these requirements, I do not make them any more.