Understanding metal strength

April 29th 2017

With design software becoming easier to use and more affordable the last decade has seen an increase in the number of "jewellery designers" that have no understanding of the medium they are working in, particularly metal strength. 

Not the first time

The ring from America.

The ring from America.

Back in 2011 I wrote a post about a ring that was purchased in America. As an engagement ring it was intended to be worn everyday and this setting was never going to survive that.

Inevitably the diamond fell out and with no chance of returning the ring to America for correction it was brought to me. The memory of the holiday purchase and proposal was now soured a little.

The ring I am going to talk about today is is not as bad but it is the same issue.

The problem ring this time

During the everyday wear of this engagement ring the claws had become bent out of shape.  I did not make the ring and it was brought to me to correct the issue.

Fortunately the diamond was neither damaged or lost. We could now look at fixing the problem.

The cause of the problem.

One of the nicest parts of this ring is that the through finger view allows you to see the side of the diamond.

The problem occurred because of the design of the side view of the setting and how it was attached to the band. This area is circled in red below.

Open area causing the weakness in the claws.

Open area causing the weakness in the claws.

The solution. 

To give the claws strength we only need to change that side view slightly allowing us to  maintain the more visible though the finger finger view as is.

Bridging the claws and attaching them firmly to the band would change the design very little but increase the strength of the claws greatly.

Required changes to the setting shown on the right

Required changes to the setting shown on the right

The result.

The ring was totally remade allowing us to match it perfectly to the wedding ring at the same time. Half carat main diamond with the channel set band diamonds bringing the rings total diamond weight to .80 carats. The ring was remade in 18ct Palladium white gold.

Info, News, DesignDavid Taylor